Every neighborhood has its own character
Seoul is split by the Han River into Gangbuk to the north and Gangnam to the south, and the mood changes sharply from one neighborhood to the next. The old downtown north of the river, once the capital of the Joseon dynasty, keeps its palaces and traditional alleys; the south has broad avenues and high-rises; and the university districts have a lively street culture. The metropolitan area is large, so trying to cover many areas in one day means spending most of it on the subway. This guide describes the areas first-time visitors choose most often and how to pick a base and a route. It focuses on the character of each area rather than on specific shops.
- History and tradition: Jongno, Gwanghwamun, Bukchon
- First visit and shopping: Myeong-dong, Namsan, Namdaemun
- Youth culture and live music: Hongdae, Yeonnam, Mangwon
- Trendy converted alleys: Seongsu
- Modern cityscape: Gangnam, Jamsil
Jongno and Gwanghwamun: palaces and old alleys
The downtown area around Gwanghwamun Square was the heart of the capital during the Joseon era. Palaces such as Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, and Deoksugung sit within walking distance of one another, and Changdeokgung and Jongmyo, the royal ancestral shrine, are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Between the palaces lies Bukchon, a residential area of hanok houses, while Insadong is a street full of traditional crafts and tea houses. People actually live in Bukchon, so walk quietly and respect the visiting hours set for tourists in some sections. Following the Cheonggyecheon stream east through downtown leads you to an old traditional market.
Myeong-dong, Namsan, and Namdaemun: the first-timer's hub
Myeong-dong is a shopping street packed with cosmetics stores and street food, and it is where many first-time visitors start. Many airport buses stop nearby and foreign-language signs are common, which makes it an easy place to stay. Right next to it, Namsan has an observation tower overlooking the city, reachable on foot, by cable car, or by a circulating bus, and the Namdaemun area is home to a large, long-established market. Myeong-dong is a tourist-oriented district, though, so it says little about everyday life in Seoul, and it gets very crowded in the evening. It is also close to Seoul Station, convenient for trains to other cities.
Hongdae, Yeonnam, and Mangwon: youthful streets by the river
The area around Hongik University is a young neighborhood of live music venues, clubs, and street performers. It is linked directly to Incheon Airport by the airport railroad, which makes arriving with large luggage easy. Next door, Yeonnam-dong has a walking path built on a former railway line, lined with small restaurants and cafes, and a little farther on you reach the alleys of Mangwon and the riverside park. The area stays lively late into the night, but weekend nights are loud and crowded, so if you want a quiet room, choose a place a block or two away from the busy main streets.
Seongsu and Dongdaemun: factory alleys and night markets
Seongsu-dong was a semi-industrial area full of handmade shoe workshops and warehouses. As cafes, pop-up stores, and select shops moved into renovated factory buildings, it became one of the city's trendiest areas. Seoul Forest nearby is a large park good for a stroll. The Dongdaemun area is a cluster of wholesale clothing malls, some of which stay open late into the night, so it keeps different hours from the rest of the city. A large curved design and exhibition complex has become its landmark, and Heunginjimun, the east gate of the old city wall, stands here too. Some wholesale malls do not sell single items, so treat them as places to soak up the atmosphere.
Gangnam and Jamsil: wide avenues and the modern city
Gangnam, south of the river, is a modern district of wide boulevards, high-rise towers, large shopping malls, and underground arcades. As a business district it fills with office workers on weekday afternoons, and its restaurant streets get busy in the evening. In the middle of the towers stands Bongeunsa, a Buddhist temple said to have been founded in the Silla period, an unusual contrast. Jamsil has a skyscraper observation deck, a large amusement complex, and Seokchon Lake, popular with families, and the cherry trees around the lake are worth seeing in spring. It is quite far by subway from the palace district, so combining the two on one day makes for long rides.
Itaewon, Hannam, and the Han River: global streets and riverside
Itaewon and Hannam-dong grew up around foreign embassies and a former military base, and they are now multinational neighborhoods with restaurants from many countries and a mosque. The streets are hilly, and crowds swell on weekend nights and during festivals, so on busy days decide your route and your way back in advance. The Han River is not to be missed. Parks stretch along both banks, and many people rent bicycles or spread out a mat to relax; the riverside near Yeouido is especially crowded during cherry blossom season. A river cruise or the night view of the bridges makes a good evening plan.
How to choose a base and a route
For a first visit, the downtown area north of the river (around Myeong-dong, Jongno, or Seoul Station) or the Hongdae area served by the airport railroad are safe choices. If food and nightlife are the goal, try Hongdae or Myeong-dong; for quiet walks and history, Jongno and Bukchon; for shopping and tidy streets, Gangnam. Subway Line 2 loops around the city center, so staying near it makes transfers to many areas easy. Some neighborhoods look close on a map but are full of hills and stairs, so check the actual walk from the station to your lodging.
- Group only two or three areas per day
- Put the historic north and Gangnam on different days
- Check hills and stairs on the walk from the station
- Check the distance to airport railroad or airport bus stops
- Confirm palace and museum closing days with official sources
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